Savirzes/sagāzuma skaitļi&grādi- ikdienai/trasei
Uzgāju interesantu info par savērsuma/sagāzuma skaitļiem. Te kāds uzrakstījis par to kāds sagāzums, grādi starp pusēm ir vajadzīgs un priekškam. To kad riepas dilst pie liela sagāzuma kad nē. Par to kādu sagāzumu labāk trasei, kādu ikdienai, un kāpēc STOCK ir pavisam savādāk. arī par to kā katra no variācījam ietekmē vadāmību.
ja vajag kādu gabalu patulkot, tad rakstat, ganjau kāds iztulkos :)
pats raksts no
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=995556
This information applies to all E36 chassis (except the 318ti, and Z3/M Coupe as the rear suspension is from the E30).
This information also applies to all E46 chassis cars.
With so many posts asking about how to get the car aligned, what shops will align the car, what are the right specs, and why do I have tire wear.....I think we need a definitive alignment guide here.
***Update*** I've also put together a Definitive Suspension Guide for the E36 [M3] mainly geared towards novice/intermediate drivers wanting to upgrade their suspension for autox/track/DD.
Q. What is the Stock E36 Alignment Adjustability?
A: A stock E36 has the following adjustments - front toe, rear toe and rear camber.
Q. Can only certain shops align my E36?
A: There is nothing special about aligning your E36. Now, aligning your E36 per the manual maybe (because of adding weights to car). But the factory specs are terrible and you can forget about them.
Q. Is it mandatory to add weights to the car when doing aligment?
A. No. Even though the factory manual says to add weights in different locations, it is not absolutely necessary and will have a rather small effect on your alignment. You can add weights per the manual, or [recommended] you can add weight in the driver seat only to approximate your own weight, or you can add no weights [not recommended for best results].
Q: Can I just take my car into a shop and ask to get it aligned?
A: Only if you dont care about performance and tire wear.
Q: What the hell does that mean?
A: If you bought an E36 M3, you obviously are looking for performance (or if you bought it for image, status, pimping, flossing, hardparking, etc, please GTFO! ). The BMW factory specs care nothing for performance or tire wear, only for safety and a low # of lawsuits. YES I AM SAYING THAT THE BMW FACTORY SPECS WILL NOT ONLY GIVE YOU POOR HANDLING AND PERFORMANCE, IT MAY ALSO WEAR OUT YOUR TIRES PREMATURELY.
Q: Ok, so what is a good performance alignment for the street with good tire wear?
A: Here are the specs:
Front
Camber: -2.5 deg (per side)
Toe: 0 (or 0.10 to 0.20 deg total toe in for mostly highway driving)
Rear
Camber: -1.5 to -2 deg (per side)
Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in)
Q: Can I get a good Performance Alignment for the Street with stock adjustments?
A: NO! You can not get a good performance alignment for the street with a bone stock E36 M3, or even with a modified suspension, without front camber adjustment . You need some form of front camber adjustment that doesn't come stock.
Q: Why do I need front camber adjustment?
A: Here is the short explanation (long explanation explained later)...your M3 came from the factory with an alignment that gives the rear tires more grip than the front. This means, when you are going around a turn (say an off ramp) and you are at the limits (tires are squealing), your front tires are giving up and the car does not turn. That is much safer than if the rear tires gave up first and you are now spinning around. But when the front tires give up long before the rear tires, you are giving up a lot of cornering ability vs. a car that all 4 tires give up at the same time. And a car that wont turn feels like crap.
Q: How do I change my front camber, and how much will it cost?
A: Here are the options:
Option #1: GOOD
Install shims at lower strut mounts
- ($0.10 to $25)
- easy to install
- gain about -1 deg. camber (about -2 deg total per side)
- may have tire clearance issues with coilovers (wheel spacers can fix this if necessary)
- need longer strut bolts
- camber adjustable only by changing shim (and/or washer) thickness
This was copied from Ligero's post:
Camber change - shim thickness in mm
0.5 deg - 1.16mm
1.0 deg - 2.63mm
1.5 deg - 4.00mm (just for reference, not recommended)
2.0 deg - 5.44mm (just for reference, do not use)
2.5 deg - 6.81mm (just for reference, do not use)
- Link to Bimmerworld - Search for: E36 Front Camber Shim Kit bimmerworld sells a shim kit (aluminum sheet, not washer) that allows for more precision
Option #2: BETTER
Swapped 96+ M3 upper strut mounts
- (free if you have a 96-99 M3, or about $75 used on bf.c)
- relatively easy to install
- gain about -2 deg. camber (about -2.75 deg total per side 95 M3s, 96+ M3s will gain more ~3.3 deg per side)
- camber not adjustable (what you get is what you get)
Option #3: BEST
Vorshlag Camber/Caster plates
- ($380 shipped IIRC)
- relatively easy install
- gain up to -3 deg. camber from stock (range of -1 to -4 deg total per side on avg [95s sometimes only up to -3.2])
- lower stack height, allows for safer lowering of car (when using coilovers)
- will likely lower front end 0.5"
- 3 way caster adjustability
- Link to Vorshlag Camber/Caster Plates Hanchey/Fair, you mind if I put this here?
Q: How much negative camber is safe to run on the street?
A: Up to -3 deg per side is safe to run on the street, but you will likely see some inner tire wear over time. (I used to run -3.4 deg camber per side on the street, with about 0.20 total toe OUT, and I got inner tire wear...about 2/32 more than the mid-outside of the tire). Now I run -2.5 deg camber per side and 0 toe on the street, and max out my camber plates negative at the track only.
Q: Wont too much negative camber kill my tires?
A: Negative camber does not kill tires. Negative camber plus excessive toe (in or out) causes inner tire wear. Toe (in or out) in effect forces the car to "drag" the tire down the road, where 0 toe lets the tire roll down the road. Make sense? Negative camber will cause the tire to roll on the inside of the tire, but negative camber plus excessive toe will drag the inside of the tire down the road causing bad inner tire wear.
Q: So why are the insides of my rear tires worn after I got a factory alignment?
A: Because factory specs call for lots of negative camber and LOTS of toe in. Very safe but bad for tire life. (Another cause for bad rear tire wear is worn out trailing arm bushings (RTABs) giving you dynamic toe changes.)
Part II
Q. How does camber affect performance?
A. To maximize cornering force from your tires, the tire must be square on the road during a corner to achieve max grip. If your car had zero camber (all tires square to the road when driving straight), as soon as you turn, the body will roll to the outside, and the outer tires will roll only on the outsides of the tires. Thats why if you ever drove a car with stock alignment hard in turns, you'll see the outsides of the tires worn.
Q. Why does the M3 need more camber in the front?
A. Because of the M3's suspension geometry. Simply put, as the car rolls in a turn, the outside wheels' suspension compresses (makes sense right?). The rear suspension was designed to gain negative camber as it compresses. So as the body rolls, the tire does not roll over as much as the car's body roll, maximizing the tire's contact patch. The front suspension is different, it does not gain significant negative camber as it compresses (during body roll in a corner), and therefore allows the tire to roll over to the outside edge, minimizing traction. This is why you must give the front end more negative camber to begin with. (Another very popular M3 trick is to run a stiff front sway bar, to limit the front body roll and maximize tire contact).
Q. What is a proper alignment procedure?
A. Before you get your car aligned, you should know what will happen. The shop will put your car on an alignment rack, and put sensors on the 4 wheels. Some racks have a hard time with very low cars, or cars with spoilers (the Beissbarth rack). BMW suggests weighting the car in several areas. This is fine, but not necessary. At least, it would be good to place weights in the driver's seat equal to your weight. But again, not critical.
The tech should start at the rear of the car, where he can adjust toe and camber. Rear Toe is adjusted by loosening the 3 bolts that hold the rear trailing arm to the chassis. If you push the arm inward, you get toe in, outward gets toe out. To adjust camber there is an eccentric bolt where the lower control arm bolts to the spindle (or wheel hub, correct term?). Anyway, once this is loose, it can be turned to adjust camber. It has a cam shaped profile, the base circle of the profile gives the most positive setting, the high end of the "cam" gives the most negative setting. Once the settings are reached, the tech will re-tighten the bolts, (if he's good, he'll do it carefully so as not to affect the positions when tightening, which you'll see when the numbers don't just quite match).
In the front, all that can be "adjusted" is toe. This is just a matter of loosening the tie rod jam nut, and then adjusting the tie rod length, and then tightening down. If the car has camber plates, it can be adjusted at the top of the strut (under the hood) and the tech CAN do this.
Q. What should I do before I get an alignment?
A. Know what you want from the car. Know what settings you want, or the shop will give you factory settings. Do you want the best performance with good tire wear? Then you need to address your front camber issue. Either shims, swap some 96+ strut hats, or camber plates. If the shop can install this for you, fine (it'll cost you), but don't assume they will.
Q. How do I find/install the shims?
A. First you need to find shims. It is basically a washer, with a hole that fits over the lower strut bolt (at least 10mm IIRC). The washer should be about 0.10" (2.54mm) thick. This should give about -1 deg more camber. Do not go much bigger, as you will lose thread engagement (the bolt will not go in all the way). A 0.10" washer is perfectly safe. All you do is jack the front wheel off the ground, remove the wheel, and remove the 2 lower strut bolts. Then insert the shim between the strut and the spindle, and reinstall. (***Note*** This method will pull the tire closer to the strut and spring perch. If you have coilovers, you may need to run a 5mm spacer (or so) if the tire begins to rub the spring perch. Should not affect non/coilover cars.)
**EDIT**Updated 24Feb09** Some have asked if it is possible to run a thicker washer [0.20" (or about 5mm)] and purchase longer bolts for the lower strut mount. Theoretically you will gain approximately -2 deg camber (about the same as swapped strut hats), however, this will bring the tire even closer to the strut, and may make it difficult to run wider tires. I have not tried this. See Post 149 for the discussion.
Q. How do I find/install the 96+ upper strut mounts?
A. If you have a 95 M3, you can find some used on bf.c. If you have a 96, 97, 98, or 99 M3 you already have these. These upper mounts or "top hats" are a steel plate with 3 studs to bolt to the shock tower, and a ball bearing in the center that holds the top of the strut shaft. You'll have to remove the entire spring/shock assembly on each side, and using a spring compressor to keep tension on the spring. Then you will need an impact tool to remove the top strut nut. Once the nut is off, you simply swap the strut hats from Left to Right, and reinstall. [It is a good idea to clean and repack the bearing before you install/re-install them]. You should have about -2.5 to -3 deg. camber. Don't forget to get an alignment afterwards.
Q. So why bother with camber plates?
A. Camber plates give you the most camber, and it is always adjustable. Some people will max out their camber on track/autox, and then adjust it back to a milder setting for the street. (Personally I just leave it ***edit*13Jan10*** - I no longer "just leave it". Now I switch between 2.5deg camber/0.10toe in for the street, and at the track I max out my camber plates giving me about -3.4deg camber/0.20 toe out per side). Also, most camber plates also allow for 2 different caster settings. (I wont go into this discussion, it is generally accepted to get as much caster as possible, but I've heard M3 drivers who prefer less caster, anyway....). Finally, I run Vorshlag camber plates because they have the lowest stack height (and a larger ball bearing center, for more info http://www.vorshlag.com). This means that if you lower your car, it does not compress the strut as much so you have more travel (no bottoming out), and it lets me run my spring perch higher, more adjustment range for coilovers.
Q. How does toe affect performance?
A. Toe behaves similar at either end of the car. Toe in will stabilize the car, making it track straight and not want to change direction. Toe out does the opposite, makes it twitchy, and want to change direction quickly. A car is more responsive with toe out, but less stable.
FRONT Of CAR - Toe-out in the front lets the car turn in nicely, but may "tramline" down the road (finding grooves and irregularities and following them). Toe-in front makes the car hard to turn and want to "push" or understeer (BTW this is what BMW recommends!).
REAR OF CAR - Toe-out in the rear is pretty dangerous for RWD cars, makes the car want to spin, especially under hard braking. Toe-in rear will keep the rear stable, and (here is the key) allow for you to put power down as early and as hard as possible without wheel spin. More is not always better, racers will always adjust these settings till they get it just right. For the street, the suggested settings will let you set-it-and-forget-it.
Q. What is a good track/autox alignment?
A. Most track guys already know what to do here, but for general FYI, a good baseline is:
Front
Camber: -3.5 deg per side
Toe: 0 (0.10-0.20 total toe out for autox)
Rear
Camber: -2.0 to -2.5 deg per side
Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in)
You'll notice it is just slightly more aggressive than a good street alignment. Any more than -3.0 deg camber and 0.10 toe (in or out) per side can lead to inner tire wear with lots of highway driving.
Some race cars (on race tires) will run even more camber. For race cars, suspension and weight (and usually the track) always plays a role in alignment.
Here is my car on street tires with -3.3 deg camber front, 0.10 total toe out, and -2.5 deg camber rear, 0.20 total toe in.
Notice as the car rolls, the tires on the ground are square to the road.
***EDIT**Update May 2009***
Q. I have camber plates on my 95 M3, but I can only get -3.x degrees max. How do I get more neg camber up front?
A. The 95 M3s (and possibly all pre 96 E36?) have a different front suspension geometry, and can not get as much camber as a 96+. So the solution is to run thin (approx 1mm thick) shims at the lower strut mount to gain an extra -0.5 to -1.0 deg of camber. Couple this with the camber plates, and you now have an adjustable range of up to approx. -4 deg camber. As mentioned above, the shims will bring the top of the tire closer to the strut/spring perch, so you may need to increase size of wheel spacer accordingly (probably no more than 5mm).
The other option is to buy crash bolts that install in the longitudinally mounted bolt at the middle of the strut. This may offer up to an additional -0.3 degrees.
Explanation: The 95 M3s have a different front spindle geometry than the 96+. Thats why the 96+ M3s tend to have a higher maximum negative camber when running camber plates. The reason is because the 96+ M3 spindles tilt the strut inboard farther than the 95 M3s, and is presumably why the 96+ strut hats are different than the 95+ hats. In stock position they provide less camber than the 95 mounts, but when swapped, they provide more camber.
Q. Why believe the author?
A. You don't have to. I'm not part of a professional race team or anything. But I've done a lot of research, a lot of tuning, and a lot of listening to faster racers. I've had my M3 since 2004. Since then I've learned to develop and setup my M3 competitively for autox and track. In 2005 I was mid pack in my autox class. In 2007 I was beating (and getting beat by) national trophy winners. Also in 2007 I started doing time trials with NASA, and held track records at VIR Full and North Course (which will be improved upon!), and got 3rd place at Redline Time Attack - Summit Point (behind two superb BMW drivers). Also became a certified NASA Instructor Feb 2008.
In 2010 I've won all but one NASA MA Time Trial events (I lost one to the Continental Challenge RRT E90 328) to claim 2010 NASA MA TTC Championship. I competed in the GRM Ultimate Track Car Challenge (and have since dropped 3 sec. from that time!). I am currently 0.18 sec. from VIR lap record and 0.8 sec from Summit Point lap record in TTC.
I also drive my car on the street, and can't afford uneven tire wear. I DD, autox, and do track events all on the same tires, so they may not last more than a year, but they are usually worn evenly. I have worn tires unevenly, and it was because I was running the wrong alignment settings (usually too much toe!)
More to come:
??????? What else do you want to know???????
__________________
ja vajag kādu gabalu patulkot, tad rakstat, ganjau kāds iztulkos :)
pats raksts no
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=995556
This information applies to all E36 chassis (except the 318ti, and Z3/M Coupe as the rear suspension is from the E30).
This information also applies to all E46 chassis cars.
With so many posts asking about how to get the car aligned, what shops will align the car, what are the right specs, and why do I have tire wear.....I think we need a definitive alignment guide here.
***Update*** I've also put together a Definitive Suspension Guide for the E36 [M3] mainly geared towards novice/intermediate drivers wanting to upgrade their suspension for autox/track/DD.
Q. What is the Stock E36 Alignment Adjustability?
A: A stock E36 has the following adjustments - front toe, rear toe and rear camber.
Q. Can only certain shops align my E36?
A: There is nothing special about aligning your E36. Now, aligning your E36 per the manual maybe (because of adding weights to car). But the factory specs are terrible and you can forget about them.
Q. Is it mandatory to add weights to the car when doing aligment?
A. No. Even though the factory manual says to add weights in different locations, it is not absolutely necessary and will have a rather small effect on your alignment. You can add weights per the manual, or [recommended] you can add weight in the driver seat only to approximate your own weight, or you can add no weights [not recommended for best results].
Q: Can I just take my car into a shop and ask to get it aligned?
A: Only if you dont care about performance and tire wear.
Q: What the hell does that mean?
A: If you bought an E36 M3, you obviously are looking for performance (or if you bought it for image, status, pimping, flossing, hardparking, etc, please GTFO! ). The BMW factory specs care nothing for performance or tire wear, only for safety and a low # of lawsuits. YES I AM SAYING THAT THE BMW FACTORY SPECS WILL NOT ONLY GIVE YOU POOR HANDLING AND PERFORMANCE, IT MAY ALSO WEAR OUT YOUR TIRES PREMATURELY.
Q: Ok, so what is a good performance alignment for the street with good tire wear?
A: Here are the specs:
Front
Camber: -2.5 deg (per side)
Toe: 0 (or 0.10 to 0.20 deg total toe in for mostly highway driving)
Rear
Camber: -1.5 to -2 deg (per side)
Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in)
Q: Can I get a good Performance Alignment for the Street with stock adjustments?
A: NO! You can not get a good performance alignment for the street with a bone stock E36 M3, or even with a modified suspension, without front camber adjustment . You need some form of front camber adjustment that doesn't come stock.
Q: Why do I need front camber adjustment?
A: Here is the short explanation (long explanation explained later)...your M3 came from the factory with an alignment that gives the rear tires more grip than the front. This means, when you are going around a turn (say an off ramp) and you are at the limits (tires are squealing), your front tires are giving up and the car does not turn. That is much safer than if the rear tires gave up first and you are now spinning around. But when the front tires give up long before the rear tires, you are giving up a lot of cornering ability vs. a car that all 4 tires give up at the same time. And a car that wont turn feels like crap.
Q: How do I change my front camber, and how much will it cost?
A: Here are the options:
Option #1: GOOD
Install shims at lower strut mounts
- ($0.10 to $25)
- easy to install
- gain about -1 deg. camber (about -2 deg total per side)
- may have tire clearance issues with coilovers (wheel spacers can fix this if necessary)
- need longer strut bolts
- camber adjustable only by changing shim (and/or washer) thickness
This was copied from Ligero's post:
Camber change - shim thickness in mm
0.5 deg - 1.16mm
1.0 deg - 2.63mm
1.5 deg - 4.00mm (just for reference, not recommended)
2.0 deg - 5.44mm (just for reference, do not use)
2.5 deg - 6.81mm (just for reference, do not use)
- Link to Bimmerworld - Search for: E36 Front Camber Shim Kit bimmerworld sells a shim kit (aluminum sheet, not washer) that allows for more precision
Option #2: BETTER
Swapped 96+ M3 upper strut mounts
- (free if you have a 96-99 M3, or about $75 used on bf.c)
- relatively easy to install
- gain about -2 deg. camber (about -2.75 deg total per side 95 M3s, 96+ M3s will gain more ~3.3 deg per side)
- camber not adjustable (what you get is what you get)
Option #3: BEST
Vorshlag Camber/Caster plates
- ($380 shipped IIRC)
- relatively easy install
- gain up to -3 deg. camber from stock (range of -1 to -4 deg total per side on avg [95s sometimes only up to -3.2])
- lower stack height, allows for safer lowering of car (when using coilovers)
- will likely lower front end 0.5"
- 3 way caster adjustability
- Link to Vorshlag Camber/Caster Plates Hanchey/Fair, you mind if I put this here?
Q: How much negative camber is safe to run on the street?
A: Up to -3 deg per side is safe to run on the street, but you will likely see some inner tire wear over time. (I used to run -3.4 deg camber per side on the street, with about 0.20 total toe OUT, and I got inner tire wear...about 2/32 more than the mid-outside of the tire). Now I run -2.5 deg camber per side and 0 toe on the street, and max out my camber plates negative at the track only.
Q: Wont too much negative camber kill my tires?
A: Negative camber does not kill tires. Negative camber plus excessive toe (in or out) causes inner tire wear. Toe (in or out) in effect forces the car to "drag" the tire down the road, where 0 toe lets the tire roll down the road. Make sense? Negative camber will cause the tire to roll on the inside of the tire, but negative camber plus excessive toe will drag the inside of the tire down the road causing bad inner tire wear.
Q: So why are the insides of my rear tires worn after I got a factory alignment?
A: Because factory specs call for lots of negative camber and LOTS of toe in. Very safe but bad for tire life. (Another cause for bad rear tire wear is worn out trailing arm bushings (RTABs) giving you dynamic toe changes.)
Part II
Q. How does camber affect performance?
A. To maximize cornering force from your tires, the tire must be square on the road during a corner to achieve max grip. If your car had zero camber (all tires square to the road when driving straight), as soon as you turn, the body will roll to the outside, and the outer tires will roll only on the outsides of the tires. Thats why if you ever drove a car with stock alignment hard in turns, you'll see the outsides of the tires worn.
Q. Why does the M3 need more camber in the front?
A. Because of the M3's suspension geometry. Simply put, as the car rolls in a turn, the outside wheels' suspension compresses (makes sense right?). The rear suspension was designed to gain negative camber as it compresses. So as the body rolls, the tire does not roll over as much as the car's body roll, maximizing the tire's contact patch. The front suspension is different, it does not gain significant negative camber as it compresses (during body roll in a corner), and therefore allows the tire to roll over to the outside edge, minimizing traction. This is why you must give the front end more negative camber to begin with. (Another very popular M3 trick is to run a stiff front sway bar, to limit the front body roll and maximize tire contact).
Q. What is a proper alignment procedure?
A. Before you get your car aligned, you should know what will happen. The shop will put your car on an alignment rack, and put sensors on the 4 wheels. Some racks have a hard time with very low cars, or cars with spoilers (the Beissbarth rack). BMW suggests weighting the car in several areas. This is fine, but not necessary. At least, it would be good to place weights in the driver's seat equal to your weight. But again, not critical.
The tech should start at the rear of the car, where he can adjust toe and camber. Rear Toe is adjusted by loosening the 3 bolts that hold the rear trailing arm to the chassis. If you push the arm inward, you get toe in, outward gets toe out. To adjust camber there is an eccentric bolt where the lower control arm bolts to the spindle (or wheel hub, correct term?). Anyway, once this is loose, it can be turned to adjust camber. It has a cam shaped profile, the base circle of the profile gives the most positive setting, the high end of the "cam" gives the most negative setting. Once the settings are reached, the tech will re-tighten the bolts, (if he's good, he'll do it carefully so as not to affect the positions when tightening, which you'll see when the numbers don't just quite match).
In the front, all that can be "adjusted" is toe. This is just a matter of loosening the tie rod jam nut, and then adjusting the tie rod length, and then tightening down. If the car has camber plates, it can be adjusted at the top of the strut (under the hood) and the tech CAN do this.
Q. What should I do before I get an alignment?
A. Know what you want from the car. Know what settings you want, or the shop will give you factory settings. Do you want the best performance with good tire wear? Then you need to address your front camber issue. Either shims, swap some 96+ strut hats, or camber plates. If the shop can install this for you, fine (it'll cost you), but don't assume they will.
Q. How do I find/install the shims?
A. First you need to find shims. It is basically a washer, with a hole that fits over the lower strut bolt (at least 10mm IIRC). The washer should be about 0.10" (2.54mm) thick. This should give about -1 deg more camber. Do not go much bigger, as you will lose thread engagement (the bolt will not go in all the way). A 0.10" washer is perfectly safe. All you do is jack the front wheel off the ground, remove the wheel, and remove the 2 lower strut bolts. Then insert the shim between the strut and the spindle, and reinstall. (***Note*** This method will pull the tire closer to the strut and spring perch. If you have coilovers, you may need to run a 5mm spacer (or so) if the tire begins to rub the spring perch. Should not affect non/coilover cars.)
**EDIT**Updated 24Feb09** Some have asked if it is possible to run a thicker washer [0.20" (or about 5mm)] and purchase longer bolts for the lower strut mount. Theoretically you will gain approximately -2 deg camber (about the same as swapped strut hats), however, this will bring the tire even closer to the strut, and may make it difficult to run wider tires. I have not tried this. See Post 149 for the discussion.
Q. How do I find/install the 96+ upper strut mounts?
A. If you have a 95 M3, you can find some used on bf.c. If you have a 96, 97, 98, or 99 M3 you already have these. These upper mounts or "top hats" are a steel plate with 3 studs to bolt to the shock tower, and a ball bearing in the center that holds the top of the strut shaft. You'll have to remove the entire spring/shock assembly on each side, and using a spring compressor to keep tension on the spring. Then you will need an impact tool to remove the top strut nut. Once the nut is off, you simply swap the strut hats from Left to Right, and reinstall. [It is a good idea to clean and repack the bearing before you install/re-install them]. You should have about -2.5 to -3 deg. camber. Don't forget to get an alignment afterwards.
Q. So why bother with camber plates?
A. Camber plates give you the most camber, and it is always adjustable. Some people will max out their camber on track/autox, and then adjust it back to a milder setting for the street. (Personally I just leave it ***edit*13Jan10*** - I no longer "just leave it". Now I switch between 2.5deg camber/0.10toe in for the street, and at the track I max out my camber plates giving me about -3.4deg camber/0.20 toe out per side). Also, most camber plates also allow for 2 different caster settings. (I wont go into this discussion, it is generally accepted to get as much caster as possible, but I've heard M3 drivers who prefer less caster, anyway....). Finally, I run Vorshlag camber plates because they have the lowest stack height (and a larger ball bearing center, for more info http://www.vorshlag.com). This means that if you lower your car, it does not compress the strut as much so you have more travel (no bottoming out), and it lets me run my spring perch higher, more adjustment range for coilovers.
Q. How does toe affect performance?
A. Toe behaves similar at either end of the car. Toe in will stabilize the car, making it track straight and not want to change direction. Toe out does the opposite, makes it twitchy, and want to change direction quickly. A car is more responsive with toe out, but less stable.
FRONT Of CAR - Toe-out in the front lets the car turn in nicely, but may "tramline" down the road (finding grooves and irregularities and following them). Toe-in front makes the car hard to turn and want to "push" or understeer (BTW this is what BMW recommends!).
REAR OF CAR - Toe-out in the rear is pretty dangerous for RWD cars, makes the car want to spin, especially under hard braking. Toe-in rear will keep the rear stable, and (here is the key) allow for you to put power down as early and as hard as possible without wheel spin. More is not always better, racers will always adjust these settings till they get it just right. For the street, the suggested settings will let you set-it-and-forget-it.
Q. What is a good track/autox alignment?
A. Most track guys already know what to do here, but for general FYI, a good baseline is:
Front
Camber: -3.5 deg per side
Toe: 0 (0.10-0.20 total toe out for autox)
Rear
Camber: -2.0 to -2.5 deg per side
Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in)
You'll notice it is just slightly more aggressive than a good street alignment. Any more than -3.0 deg camber and 0.10 toe (in or out) per side can lead to inner tire wear with lots of highway driving.
Some race cars (on race tires) will run even more camber. For race cars, suspension and weight (and usually the track) always plays a role in alignment.
Here is my car on street tires with -3.3 deg camber front, 0.10 total toe out, and -2.5 deg camber rear, 0.20 total toe in.
Notice as the car rolls, the tires on the ground are square to the road.
***EDIT**Update May 2009***
Q. I have camber plates on my 95 M3, but I can only get -3.x degrees max. How do I get more neg camber up front?
A. The 95 M3s (and possibly all pre 96 E36?) have a different front suspension geometry, and can not get as much camber as a 96+. So the solution is to run thin (approx 1mm thick) shims at the lower strut mount to gain an extra -0.5 to -1.0 deg of camber. Couple this with the camber plates, and you now have an adjustable range of up to approx. -4 deg camber. As mentioned above, the shims will bring the top of the tire closer to the strut/spring perch, so you may need to increase size of wheel spacer accordingly (probably no more than 5mm).
The other option is to buy crash bolts that install in the longitudinally mounted bolt at the middle of the strut. This may offer up to an additional -0.3 degrees.
Explanation: The 95 M3s have a different front spindle geometry than the 96+. Thats why the 96+ M3s tend to have a higher maximum negative camber when running camber plates. The reason is because the 96+ M3 spindles tilt the strut inboard farther than the 95 M3s, and is presumably why the 96+ strut hats are different than the 95+ hats. In stock position they provide less camber than the 95 mounts, but when swapped, they provide more camber.
Q. Why believe the author?
A. You don't have to. I'm not part of a professional race team or anything. But I've done a lot of research, a lot of tuning, and a lot of listening to faster racers. I've had my M3 since 2004. Since then I've learned to develop and setup my M3 competitively for autox and track. In 2005 I was mid pack in my autox class. In 2007 I was beating (and getting beat by) national trophy winners. Also in 2007 I started doing time trials with NASA, and held track records at VIR Full and North Course (which will be improved upon!), and got 3rd place at Redline Time Attack - Summit Point (behind two superb BMW drivers). Also became a certified NASA Instructor Feb 2008.
In 2010 I've won all but one NASA MA Time Trial events (I lost one to the Continental Challenge RRT E90 328) to claim 2010 NASA MA TTC Championship. I competed in the GRM Ultimate Track Car Challenge (and have since dropped 3 sec. from that time!). I am currently 0.18 sec. from VIR lap record and 0.8 sec from Summit Point lap record in TTC.
I also drive my car on the street, and can't afford uneven tire wear. I DD, autox, and do track events all on the same tires, so they may not last more than a year, but they are usually worn evenly. I have worn tires unevenly, and it was because I was running the wrong alignment settings (usually too much toe!)
More to come:
??????? What else do you want to know???????
__________________
Jums nav vajadzīgās atļaujas lai apskatītu šo pielikumu.
/-\ = negative toe/ Toe In (view from Top of car)
\-/ = positive toe/ Toe Out (view from Top of car) So a neutral camber will be |-| (while looking at the car front on),
A Negative Camber will be /-\,
And a Positive camber will be \-/. apakshaa veel caster paraadiits
\-/ = positive toe/ Toe Out (view from Top of car) So a neutral camber will be |-| (while looking at the car front on),
A Negative Camber will be /-\,
And a Positive camber will be \-/. apakshaa veel caster paraadiits
Jums nav vajadzīgās atļaujas lai apskatītu šo pielikumu.
būs jāiedziļinās un moš japaeksperimentē un tā kā es parasti pārvietojos ar jau padilušām riepām,tad nebūs to žēl,ja tās noēdīs 
Varbūt ja vari patulko to par to ideālo ielas sagāzumu,tipa kur un kādi grādi jāliek! Man ar to specifiskajiem vārdiem tā pagrūti
coupe 2.8
Būtu ideāli ja kāds VISU pārtulkotu. 
tik netulkojiet caur google tulkotāju
coupe 2.8
ok kautkad pameeginaashu leenaak paartulkot svarigiaako.
vaitad savirzes kompii nav visi nepieciesamie graadi?
jaatjuunee m42
ir, bet ka jau siet minets, standarta rupnicas dati! ja gribi opimizet, pec savam vajadzibam, tad ir jamaina lenkiji.
ps agri, labs texts!
ps agri, labs texts!
...
labi par priekšu ierubījos,a kā pakaļu sagāzt? Piedodiet ja stūlbs jautājums!
coupe 2.8
aizmugure tak ir tava ekscentriskaa skruve, kuru pagrozot mainas sagazums! palien apaksa uzreiz pamanisi!
...
paldies,paskatīšos,vnk neesmu pats to savirzi nekad skrūvējis 
coupe 2.8
ātri pārskrēju garām - varu teikt tikai to ka šis raksts ir vajadzīgs labi ja 1% no foruma lietotājiem, 99% pietikts ar ritošās daļas savešanu kārtībā un savirzes stenda apmeklējumu (sevišķi ja auto ir piesēdināts - jau pr sagāzums ir kļuvis negatīvāks par stock)
m50/m52/m54 un n42/n46 timing tūļu noma
Ms41/ms42/ms43 ews atslēgšana.
Ms41/ms42/ms43 ews atslēgšana.
Uzgāju interesantu info par savērsuma/sagāzuma skaitļiem. Te kāds uzrakstījis par to kāds sagāzums, grādi starp pusēm ir vajadzīgs un priekškam. To kad riepas dilst pie liela sagāzuma kad nē. Par to kādu sagāzumu labāk trasei, kādu ikdienai, un kāpēc STOCK ir pavisam savādāk. arī par to kā katra no variācījam ietekmē vadāmību.
ja vajag kādu gabalu patulkot, tad rakstat, ganjau kāds iztulkos :)
pats raksts no
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=995556
Šī informācija attiecas uz visām e36 virsbūvēm (izņemot 318ti, un Z3/M kupeju, tādēļ, ka to aizmugurējā amortizācijas sistēma ir no E30)
Šī informācija arī attiecas uz visām e46 virsbūves mašīnām.
Ar tik daudz postiem, vaicājot par to, kā noregulēt mašīnu, kādi servisi to dara, kādi ir pareizie iestatījumi, un kāpēc man ir pastiprināts riepu nodilums..... es domāju, mums vajag pilnīgu regulēšanas pamācību šeit.
***Atjauninājums*** Es esmu arī salicis kopā pilnīgu amortizācijas sistēmas pamācību priekš e36 [M3] galvenokārt paredzētu priekš iesācējiem/vidēji pieredzējušiem vadītājiem, kas vēlas uzlabot savas mašīnas amortizācijas sistēmu priekš trases.
J. Kādi iestatījumi standarta e36 ir regulējami?
A: Standarta e36 ir sekojoši iestatījumi - priekšējais savērsums, aizmugurējais savērsums un aizmugurējais sagāzums.
J. Vai tikai noteiktos servisos var noregulēt manu e36?
A: Tava e36 noregulēšanā nav nekā īpaša. Varbūt vienīgi regulācija pēc pamācības (tādēļ, ka tā pieprasa mašīnai pievienot atsvarus). Bet rūpnīcas iestatījumi ir briesmīgi un tu vari aizmirst par tiem.
J. Vai ir obligāti pievienot mašīnai atsvarus, veicot tās regulāciju?
A. Nē. Lai gan rūpnīcas pamācībā teikts, ka jāpievieno atsvari dažādās vietās, tas nav absolūti nepieciešams un atstās pavisam nelielu efektu uz tavu regulāciju. Tu vari pievienot atsvarus kā norādīts pamācībā, vai [ieteicams] tu vari pievienot atsvaru vadītāja sēdeklī, līdzīgu savam svaram, vai ārī tu vari nevienienot atsvarus vispār [nav ieteicams priekš vislabākajiem rezultātiem].
J. Vai es varu vienkārši aizvest savu mašīnu uz servisu un paprasīt, lai to noregulē?
A: Vienīgi, ja tev ir vienalga par veiktspēju un riepu nodilumu
J. Ko pie velna tas nozīmē?
A: Ja tu nopirki e36 M3, tu noteikti meklē labu veikstspēju ( vai ja tu to nopirki priekš imidža, statusa, zīmēšanās, izrādīšanās, harparkinga utt., lūdzu GTFO!). BMW rūpnīcas iestatījumi nerūpējas par veikspēju vai riepu nodilumu, bet tikai par drošību un lai netiktu iesūdzēti tiesā. JĀ, ES SAKU TO, KA BMW RŪPNĪCAS IESTATĪJUMI JUMS NE TIKAI DOS SLIKTU VADĀMĪBU, BET ARĪ VAR PRIEKŠLAICĪGI NODELDĒT RIEPAS.
J. Ok, tad kādi ir labas veiktspējas iestatījumi priekš ielas ar labu riepu nodilumu (labs riepu nodilums - neēd riepas) ?
A: Šeit ir iestatījumi:
Priekša
Sagāzums: -2.5 grādi (uz katru pusi)
savērsums: 0 (vai 0.10 līdz 0.20 grādi savērsums uz iekšu pārsvarā priekš braukšanas pa šoseju)
Aizmugure
Sagāzums: -1.5 līdz -2 grādi (uz katru pusi)
Savērsums: 0.20 totālais savērsums uz iekšu (Ja pareizi atceros tas ir 1/8" totālasi savērsums uz iekšu)
J: Vai es varu dabūt labus veiktspējas iestatījumus priekš ielas ar standarta piekares regulēšanu
A: NĒ! Tu nevari dabūt labus iestatījumus ar standarta e36 M3, vai pat ar modificētu amortizācijas sitēmu, bez priekšējā sagāzuma regulācijas. Tev vajagā kādu iespēju regulēt priekšējo sagāzumu, kas nenāca standartā.
J: Kāpēc man vajag priekšējā sagāzuma regulāciju?
A: Šeit ir īss paskaidrojums (gari paskaidrots vēlāk)...tavs M3 nāca no rūpnīcas ar regulējumu, kas dod aizmugurējām riepām vairāk saķeres kā priekšējām. Tas nozīmē, kad tu brauc līkumā (teiksim no kalna lejā) un tu esi uz robežas (riepas kauc), tas priekšējās riepas padosies un mašīna negriezīsies (izslīdēs priekša). Tas ir daudz drošāk (nedomāju gan, savu pirmo auto sasitu tieši tā
)nekā aizmugurējās riepas padotos pirmās un tevi samestu. Bet kad priekšējās riepas padodas daudz agrāk nekā aizmugurējās, tu zaudē ļoti daudz griešanās spējas pret mašīnu, kam visas 4 riepas padodas vienā laikā. Un mašīnas, kas negriežas liekas kā sūds.
J: Kā lai es mainu priekšējo sagāzumu un cik daudz tas maksās
A: Šeit ir varianti:
Variants #1: LABS
Ievieto starplikas apakšējā amortizatora stiprinājumā
+ (Ls0.05 līdz Ls12.5)
+ viegli uzstādīt
+ dabū apmēram -1 grādu sagāzumu (apmēram -2 grādi totāli uz sānu)
- Riepa var strīķēties ar koiloveriem (to var labot ar starplikām ja nepieciešams)
- Vajag garākas skrūves amortizatora stiprinājumam
- sagāzums regulējam vienīgi mainot starplikas (un/vai šaibas) biezumu
Šis ir nokopēts no Ligero posta:
Sagāzuma izmaiņas - starplikas biezums milimetros
0.5grādi - 1.16mm
1.0grādi - 2.63mm
1.5grādi - 4.00mm(tikai atsaucēm, nav ieteicams)
2.0grādi - 5.33mm(tikai atsaucēm, nelietot)
2.5grādi - 6.81mm(tikai atsaucēm, nelietot)
- Links uz Bimmerworld - Meklē: E36 Front Camber Shim Kit, bimmerworld pārdod starpliku komplektu (alumīnija lapu, ne šaibu) tas dod lielāku precizitāti
Variants #2: LABĀKS
Ielikti 96+ M3 augšējie amortizatora stiprinājumi (atbalsta gultņi)
+ (par brīvu, ja tev ir 96-99 M3, vai aptuveni Ls32.5 lietoti(man gan liekas, ka pa tādu ciparu var jaunus dabūt eparts.lv)
+ relatīvi viegli uzstādīt (ar pareizajiem instrumentiem, protams)
+ dabū apmēram -2 grādus sagāzumu (apmēram -2.75 grādus totālo uz sānu 95 M3, 96+ M3 dabūs vairāk: ~3.3 grādus uz sānu)
- Sagāzums nav regulējams (Ko tu dabū ir tas ko tu dabū)
Variants #3: Vislabākais
Vorshlag Sagāzuma/Caster plāksnes
- (~Ls190 ar piegādi)
- relatīvi viegli uzstādīt
- dabū līdz -3 grādiem sagāzumu no standarta (diapazonā no -1 līdz -4 deg totālā uz sānu vidēji [95' dažreiz tikai līdz -3.2])
- plānāki par standarta atbalsta gultņiem, atļauj drošāk sēdināt mašīnu (lietojot koiloverus)
- Droši vien nosēdinās priekšu par puscollu
- 3 veidu caster regulēšana
J: Cik daudz negatīva sagāzuma ir droši braukt uz ielas
A: Līdz -3 grādiem uz sānu ir droši braukt uz ielas, bet visticamāk, ka būs pastiprināts riepas iekšmalas nodilums (agrāk es braucu ar -3.4 sagāzumu uz sānu pa ielu, ar apmēram 0.20 savērsumu uz āru, un man pastiprināti dila riepu iekšmalas... apmērm 1.59 mm vairāk, kā riepas visu un ārmala. Tagad es braucu ar -2.5 grādu sagāzumu uz sānu un 0 savērsumu uz ielas, un maksimālu negatīvu sagāzumu uz trases.
J: Vai par daudz negatīva sagāzuma nenodeldēs manas riepas?
A: Negatīvs sagāzums nedeldē riepas. Negatīvs sagāzums plus pārāk liels savērsums (uz iekšu vai āru) izraisa iekšmalas dilšanu. savērsums (uz iešu vai āru) leik mašīnai "vilkt" riepu pa ceļu, turpretī 0 savērsums ļauj riepai brīvi ripot. Saprati domu? Negatīvs sagāzums liks riepai ripot uz tās iekšmalas, betnegatīvs sagāzums + pārāk liels savērsums vilks riepas iekšmalu pa ceļu, tādejādi nodeldējot iekšmalu.
J: Tad kādēļ man ar rūpnīcas iestatījumiem ir nodilušas pakaļējo riepu iekšmalas?
A: Tādēļ, ka rūpnīcas iestatījumos ir daudz negatīva sagāzuma un DAUDZ savērsuma uz iekšu. Ļoti droši, bet slikti slikti riepu mūžam. (Vēl viens iemesls riepu pastiprinātam nodilumam ir beigti "trailing arm bushings" (laikam sailnetbloki hvz palabojiet mani) dodot dinamiskas savērsuma izmaiņas.
ja vajag kādu gabalu patulkot, tad rakstat, ganjau kāds iztulkos :)
pats raksts no
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=995556
Šī informācija attiecas uz visām e36 virsbūvēm (izņemot 318ti, un Z3/M kupeju, tādēļ, ka to aizmugurējā amortizācijas sistēma ir no E30)
Šī informācija arī attiecas uz visām e46 virsbūves mašīnām.
Ar tik daudz postiem, vaicājot par to, kā noregulēt mašīnu, kādi servisi to dara, kādi ir pareizie iestatījumi, un kāpēc man ir pastiprināts riepu nodilums..... es domāju, mums vajag pilnīgu regulēšanas pamācību šeit.
***Atjauninājums*** Es esmu arī salicis kopā pilnīgu amortizācijas sistēmas pamācību priekš e36 [M3] galvenokārt paredzētu priekš iesācējiem/vidēji pieredzējušiem vadītājiem, kas vēlas uzlabot savas mašīnas amortizācijas sistēmu priekš trases.
J. Kādi iestatījumi standarta e36 ir regulējami?
A: Standarta e36 ir sekojoši iestatījumi - priekšējais savērsums, aizmugurējais savērsums un aizmugurējais sagāzums.
J. Vai tikai noteiktos servisos var noregulēt manu e36?
A: Tava e36 noregulēšanā nav nekā īpaša. Varbūt vienīgi regulācija pēc pamācības (tādēļ, ka tā pieprasa mašīnai pievienot atsvarus). Bet rūpnīcas iestatījumi ir briesmīgi un tu vari aizmirst par tiem.
J. Vai ir obligāti pievienot mašīnai atsvarus, veicot tās regulāciju?
A. Nē. Lai gan rūpnīcas pamācībā teikts, ka jāpievieno atsvari dažādās vietās, tas nav absolūti nepieciešams un atstās pavisam nelielu efektu uz tavu regulāciju. Tu vari pievienot atsvarus kā norādīts pamācībā, vai [ieteicams] tu vari pievienot atsvaru vadītāja sēdeklī, līdzīgu savam svaram, vai ārī tu vari nevienienot atsvarus vispār [nav ieteicams priekš vislabākajiem rezultātiem].
J. Vai es varu vienkārši aizvest savu mašīnu uz servisu un paprasīt, lai to noregulē?
A: Vienīgi, ja tev ir vienalga par veiktspēju un riepu nodilumu
J. Ko pie velna tas nozīmē?
A: Ja tu nopirki e36 M3, tu noteikti meklē labu veikstspēju ( vai ja tu to nopirki priekš imidža, statusa, zīmēšanās, izrādīšanās, harparkinga utt., lūdzu GTFO!). BMW rūpnīcas iestatījumi nerūpējas par veikspēju vai riepu nodilumu, bet tikai par drošību un lai netiktu iesūdzēti tiesā. JĀ, ES SAKU TO, KA BMW RŪPNĪCAS IESTATĪJUMI JUMS NE TIKAI DOS SLIKTU VADĀMĪBU, BET ARĪ VAR PRIEKŠLAICĪGI NODELDĒT RIEPAS.
J. Ok, tad kādi ir labas veiktspējas iestatījumi priekš ielas ar labu riepu nodilumu (labs riepu nodilums - neēd riepas) ?
A: Šeit ir iestatījumi:
Priekša
Sagāzums: -2.5 grādi (uz katru pusi)
savērsums: 0 (vai 0.10 līdz 0.20 grādi savērsums uz iekšu pārsvarā priekš braukšanas pa šoseju)
Aizmugure
Sagāzums: -1.5 līdz -2 grādi (uz katru pusi)
Savērsums: 0.20 totālais savērsums uz iekšu (Ja pareizi atceros tas ir 1/8" totālasi savērsums uz iekšu)
J: Vai es varu dabūt labus veiktspējas iestatījumus priekš ielas ar standarta piekares regulēšanu
A: NĒ! Tu nevari dabūt labus iestatījumus ar standarta e36 M3, vai pat ar modificētu amortizācijas sitēmu, bez priekšējā sagāzuma regulācijas. Tev vajagā kādu iespēju regulēt priekšējo sagāzumu, kas nenāca standartā.
J: Kāpēc man vajag priekšējā sagāzuma regulāciju?
A: Šeit ir īss paskaidrojums (gari paskaidrots vēlāk)...tavs M3 nāca no rūpnīcas ar regulējumu, kas dod aizmugurējām riepām vairāk saķeres kā priekšējām. Tas nozīmē, kad tu brauc līkumā (teiksim no kalna lejā) un tu esi uz robežas (riepas kauc), tas priekšējās riepas padosies un mašīna negriezīsies (izslīdēs priekša). Tas ir daudz drošāk (nedomāju gan, savu pirmo auto sasitu tieši tā
)nekā aizmugurējās riepas padotos pirmās un tevi samestu. Bet kad priekšējās riepas padodas daudz agrāk nekā aizmugurējās, tu zaudē ļoti daudz griešanās spējas pret mašīnu, kam visas 4 riepas padodas vienā laikā. Un mašīnas, kas negriežas liekas kā sūds.J: Kā lai es mainu priekšējo sagāzumu un cik daudz tas maksās
A: Šeit ir varianti:
Variants #1: LABS
Ievieto starplikas apakšējā amortizatora stiprinājumā
+ (Ls0.05 līdz Ls12.5)
+ viegli uzstādīt
+ dabū apmēram -1 grādu sagāzumu (apmēram -2 grādi totāli uz sānu)
- Riepa var strīķēties ar koiloveriem (to var labot ar starplikām ja nepieciešams)
- Vajag garākas skrūves amortizatora stiprinājumam
- sagāzums regulējam vienīgi mainot starplikas (un/vai šaibas) biezumu
Šis ir nokopēts no Ligero posta:
Sagāzuma izmaiņas - starplikas biezums milimetros
0.5grādi - 1.16mm
1.0grādi - 2.63mm
1.5grādi - 4.00mm(tikai atsaucēm, nav ieteicams)
2.0grādi - 5.33mm(tikai atsaucēm, nelietot)
2.5grādi - 6.81mm(tikai atsaucēm, nelietot)
- Links uz Bimmerworld - Meklē: E36 Front Camber Shim Kit, bimmerworld pārdod starpliku komplektu (alumīnija lapu, ne šaibu) tas dod lielāku precizitāti
Variants #2: LABĀKS
Ielikti 96+ M3 augšējie amortizatora stiprinājumi (atbalsta gultņi)
+ (par brīvu, ja tev ir 96-99 M3, vai aptuveni Ls32.5 lietoti(man gan liekas, ka pa tādu ciparu var jaunus dabūt eparts.lv)
+ relatīvi viegli uzstādīt (ar pareizajiem instrumentiem, protams)
+ dabū apmēram -2 grādus sagāzumu (apmēram -2.75 grādus totālo uz sānu 95 M3, 96+ M3 dabūs vairāk: ~3.3 grādus uz sānu)
- Sagāzums nav regulējams (Ko tu dabū ir tas ko tu dabū)
Variants #3: Vislabākais
Vorshlag Sagāzuma/Caster plāksnes
- (~Ls190 ar piegādi)
- relatīvi viegli uzstādīt
- dabū līdz -3 grādiem sagāzumu no standarta (diapazonā no -1 līdz -4 deg totālā uz sānu vidēji [95' dažreiz tikai līdz -3.2])
- plānāki par standarta atbalsta gultņiem, atļauj drošāk sēdināt mašīnu (lietojot koiloverus)
- Droši vien nosēdinās priekšu par puscollu
- 3 veidu caster regulēšana
J: Cik daudz negatīva sagāzuma ir droši braukt uz ielas
A: Līdz -3 grādiem uz sānu ir droši braukt uz ielas, bet visticamāk, ka būs pastiprināts riepas iekšmalas nodilums (agrāk es braucu ar -3.4 sagāzumu uz sānu pa ielu, ar apmēram 0.20 savērsumu uz āru, un man pastiprināti dila riepu iekšmalas... apmērm 1.59 mm vairāk, kā riepas visu un ārmala. Tagad es braucu ar -2.5 grādu sagāzumu uz sānu un 0 savērsumu uz ielas, un maksimālu negatīvu sagāzumu uz trases.
J: Vai par daudz negatīva sagāzuma nenodeldēs manas riepas?
A: Negatīvs sagāzums nedeldē riepas. Negatīvs sagāzums plus pārāk liels savērsums (uz iekšu vai āru) izraisa iekšmalas dilšanu. savērsums (uz iešu vai āru) leik mašīnai "vilkt" riepu pa ceļu, turpretī 0 savērsums ļauj riepai brīvi ripot. Saprati domu? Negatīvs sagāzums liks riepai ripot uz tās iekšmalas, betnegatīvs sagāzums + pārāk liels savērsums vilks riepas iekšmalu pa ceļu, tādejādi nodeldējot iekšmalu.
J: Tad kādēļ man ar rūpnīcas iestatījumiem ir nodilušas pakaļējo riepu iekšmalas?
A: Tādēļ, ka rūpnīcas iestatījumos ir daudz negatīva sagāzuma un DAUDZ savērsuma uz iekšu. Ļoti droši, bet slikti slikti riepu mūžam. (Vēl viens iemesls riepu pastiprinātam nodilumam ir beigti "trailing arm bushings" (laikam sailnetbloki hvz palabojiet mani) dodot dinamiskas savērsuma izmaiņas.
Pēdējais labojis Liss - 24 Okt 2011, 18:23, kopā labots 2 reizes.
A ko darīt ja ar sēdinājumu priekšējie riteņi jau tāpat ir / \ ? Pakaļējie gan šķiet taisni, ja nu vienīgi savirze bik uz iekšpusi vērsta..
Pakaļējie gan šķiet taisni, ja nu vienīgi savirze bik uz iekšpusi vērsta.. taapeec aizrbauc uz savirzi kur dod arii izdrukas un redzeesi cik tad tev kas sliipi ir. man piem defaultaa ar r17 reguleeja aizmuguri uz -2 sagaazumu.
Tas viss pēc ziemas mani sagaida.
sveiki! jautajums tads vai e36 priekšejiem riteniem var sagazumu regulet!?
jautajum tapec, ka vakar taisiju savirzi un viens rats stav taisni otrs mazliet slipi uz iekspusi! vecis teica ka iespejams disks liks, nez tiesi pirms 3 dienam vini taisnoti tika!
un ta pat masina uz taisna cela velk pa kreisi!
jautajum tapec, ka vakar taisiju savirzi un viens rats stav taisni otrs mazliet slipi uz iekspusi! vecis teica ka iespejams disks liks, nez tiesi pirms 3 dienam vini taisnoti tika!
un ta pat masina uz taisna cela velk pa kreisi!
nee ar disku te nebus nekada sakara soreiz, disku var ari centrali izsist no ass, bet tad pastumjot vinju pa 180 gradiem vinjam butu jastav uz aru un pabraukt tu normali nevaretu. ir jalien apaksaa un jaskatas kas pa iemeslu tam, mok esi saliecis plauktu ritenim
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salauzta atspere (visdrīzāk)
liekts plaukts
iegāzta glāze (šķiltenis)
liekts plaukts
iegāzta glāze (šķiltenis)
m50/m52/m54 un n42/n46 timing tūļu noma
Ms41/ms42/ms43 ews atslēgšana.
Ms41/ms42/ms43 ews atslēgšana.
he - un kā tad ar visiem gludekļiem? Visiem priekšējie rati / \. Visi šķilteņi? Kaut gan te jau dīvaini - viens iegāzts, otrs nē. Moš glāze ielūzusi/tiešām saliekta..